São Tomé e Príncipe
This is a private page of personal travels.
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​It’s the second smallest country in Africa. The Portuguese speaking country is composed of two main islands: São Tomé, the main one and also where the capital is and Principe a little bit further north.  At the south point of São Tomé island, there is the very small Rolas island, but known as it lies directly on the Equator. (Praia café is at: 0,00001*N, 6,51900*E)

You will find here below just the basic information of what you need:

​The only airline flying into São Tomé from Europe is the TAP (with a one hour stop in Accra-Ghana). You can also fly with another more convenient airline to you to Accra, then buy a ticket from Accra to São Tomé with the TAP- Air Portugal (www.flytap.com) European, Brazilian, US and Canadian passports do not need a visa if the stay is up to 15 days. 
​For longer stays or other passport holders, please check their nearest Embassy to you.

​Weather: Very hot and humid all year round, so take light clothing but good shoes in case you plan to see a plantation or walk around. Few Hotels have air-condition in the rooms, but many Lodges and all restaurants don’t. They are open-air with some fans on the ceiling only. The sea temperature is mainly around 26*C all year round.

Health: 
There is no vaccination required to enter São Tomé e Príncipe. 
Vaccinations recommended but not mandatory: Yellow fever, Hepatitis A, Tetanus
Malaria: There is a risk of Malaria all over the country, for that reason we recommend to take care and use at least mosquito repellent. 
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Money: The local currency is called Dobra. (In January 2024, the exchange rate was: 1€ = 25 Dobras). You can pay in most places with Euros, but the change you will receive in Dobras.
It is still good if you change about 50-100 Euros into Dobras in case one place does not take Euros or for giving tips etc.. 
 
Supermarkets: There are some bigger ones in the ‘city center’, like Continental but the biggest one is called Super CKdo. You will find mainly all ‘Pingo Doce’ branded items (Portuguese) and much more. Outside the capital you will only find very local places, so if you need something, this is the place to go.
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​Cell phones: There are two providers, CST (https://cst.st/) and Unitel (www.unitel.st). CST is the biggest one with better coverage on both islands. Their main office is near the mercado Municipal. 
A Sim card with 4 GB costs about 17 €uros. You will need to present your passport to purchase the Sim card. Afterwards, there are many places all over the country where you can upload more money/GB to your phone.
 
To have a local Sim with GB is extremely useful, specially if you decide to drive yourself as no good maps or road signs are available. Google maps works very well. Most people there use whatsapp also. 
Very useful to bring with you: A double/multiple Plug as many Hotels and Lodges don’t have enough plugs in the room. They use the European two-round pin, 220v.
 
Wifi: There is free Wifi at the airport and in most hotels there is also free internet connection, but sometimes it does not reach the room.

Driving: Streets are in general very bad to very very bad, watch out for the holes! Some fun fact: there is not one single redlight on the islands. 
Renting a car can be tricky as there are no official rent-a-car companies. You will need to ask either a travel agency or in the hotels if they know someone who knows someone who has a car.. The cost per day can vary between 40 to 70 Euros a day in São Tomé and between 70 and 150 in Principe Island.. depending who you ask

​Agency:  We used Paradise tours in São Tomé. The owner is a French guy called Jean-Maxime. https://saotome-paradise.com . Tel: Jean-Maxime: +239 9981234. He organized us the trips to the south and center with a driver, and to the north and west where we drove ourselves. He also works with several guides around the island and in principe, so he can also organize one for you.
Another contact of somebody who rents a car:
Hanna & Silva: (+239 9839188)
Didi: (+239 9937375)
Travel Agency: Jorge Sousa: (+239 9918310)
São Tomé Island: 

To see in São Tomé city: 
 
The Museu Nacional,  the main market (Mercado Municipal) , Nossa Senhora da Graça Cathedral and walk around the Praça da Independencia and see some old colonial houses.
Claudio Corallo: An eldery Italian man who is the main exporter of Cocoa, chocolates and Coffee. He has a workshop in town where he explains the different process of chocolate and will make you taste them, very interesting. You have to book this 45min session: www.claudiocorallo.com  or Tel: +239 9916815
Hotels: 
 
The two best ones:  
Others: (to be booked through booking.com)
In general, most places in both islands work with booking.com, but most of them you pay cash upon arrival at the hotel, no need for pre-payment
  • Kenito. B&B.  Clean rooms with air-condition and wifi. There is also a Pool
  • Casa Luis
  • Sweet Guest House
  • Hotel Praia. 1km from the airport. Good if you want to spend the afternoon at the huge pool before your flight back. 
 
Restaurants: 
  • Papa Figo (Tel: +239 2227261). Av. das Nações Unidas. Reservation recommended. Good ambiance and food.
  • Filomar. (+239 2221908). Terrace with view on the sea.
  • O Pirata: (+239 989 4284). Av. Marginal 12 de Julho.  Next to the sea, more popular for lunch, but dinner is also fine.
  • Donna Tété: (+239 9904353). Av. Marginal 12 de Julho. Classic good local food.
  • Pasteleria Diogo Vaz (D. Vaz is a very big producer of chocolates together with Claudio Corallo)
On the Av. Marginal there are several more Restaurants and Bars like: Sabor da Ilha, Bar Jasmin, Bar B24, Cesar Café, 
 
Souvenir Shops:
  • Ubaga: On the Avenida Marginal. They sell higher quality souvenirs from São Tomé e Principe. Handicrafts, coffee, chocolates and more.
Hotel in Outside the capital: 

There a mainly three "Roads" that go out of São Tomé town.
a) Central Road
b) South Road
c) North and West Road
 
A) Central Road trip: 

​What to do and see:
  • Botanical Garden (visit takes about 20 min)
  • São Nicolão waterfall
  • Hike to Amelia Lagoon (nothing special, it takes nearly 4 hours up and same path down. You can eventually walk 1,5 hours up and back in case you want to see the vegetation. Park the car at the Botanical garden and start walking from there.
  • Roça Monte Café. It’s an old closed factory but ok to walk through and see it. Have a coffee at Pensão Ephraim (+239 9960327).
  • Lunch: Casa Museu Almada Negreiros. Tel: +239 9916172. One menu for all, very nice Food! Recommended, but you need to book! 
  • Hotel in Madalena: Eden Valley Ecolodge: book through booking.com 
B) South Road trip: 
 
            To give you an idea, from São Tomé city to the south point, it takes 2,5hours by car if you don’t stop, but we recommend you to stop and see:

  • In Agua Izé: An old Hospital, now a ruin, interesting Building. 
  • Stop at Boca de Inferno for a quick view on the rocks formation and have a fresh coconut to drink.
  • If you want to swimm: stop at the Praia das Sete Ondas. There is a small bar and the beach is known for surfers.
  • Make a small stop to see the praia pesqueira waterfall
  • You will see the Pico Cão grande just by driving down. Amazing landmark!
Lunch: 
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  • The most amazing lunch on the island at the Roça São João de Angolares. (Tel: +239 2261140 or 9929475) The restaurant of the famous chef João Carlos Silva.  An amazing gastronomical lunch experience- a must. Same menu for all using only local ingredients. The Menu is composed of 5 starters, 1 main course and 2 desserts.  You have to book in advance or you won’t get a table! Count at least two hours for that experience.  They also have some rooms, you can book them through booking.com 
  • If you don’t get a table at Chef João Carlos Silva, second option, 500 m further is the restaurant Mionga (+239 2261141)
Hotels on the South Road: Half way down the South: 
  • Pousada Roça São João de Angolares. (Tel: +239 2261140)
  • N'Guembú Nature Resort , south of Porto Alegre. Mail: geral@nguembu.com

​At the south point: 
  • Hotel Praia Inhame Eco Lodge. (+239 9904312). Nice bungalows, food is ok (buffet for breakfast and dinner) and big beach.
 
Day trips from Praia Inhame: 
  • Mangrove Tour
  • Praia Piscina and Praia Jale. (Turtles nest there) 
  • Visit Bastien Loloum, a French guy that has a very good Gin destilation there and a vanilla plantation. They have also two bungalows. (Tel: +239 9048811 or deliciasdasilhas@gmail.com ).
  • Ilhéu das Rolas: from the Inhame Eco Lodge beach, take a boat to cross to the island. You will walk up the hill to stand on the Equator line. Then have lunch at the beach. The day trip can be organized by the Inhame Lodge.
 
Our travel Agency, paradise tours organized us a boat from Praia Inhame Lodge going up the west coast until the Mucumbli Lodge. Unfortunately it was raining very strongly that day and we had to drive up by car
C) North and West Road trip: 
 
The Street from the capital up to Guadalupe is very nice, afterwards, unfortunately very bad.
In general, from the capital to Mucumbli Lodge it takes about one hour drive.
 
Beaches worth stopping if you want to swimm:
  • Praia Tamarindos:  Very nice sandy beach, good for swimming.
  • Lagoa Azul: Smaller bay, known for its blue waters, but there is hardly any sand spots on the beach, mainly rocks. 

Hotels in the west coast: 
​Restaurant in Neves town: 
  • Santola: Known for its Santola crab.The Restaurant is a bit run down, but the crabs are nice. Tel: +239 967 057424
 
To do in the area: 
  • Roça Diogo Vaz: https://www.diogovaz.pt This Cocoa plantation is about 10 min. drive from Mucumbli Lodge. You will walk through the Cocoa trees and will see the factory where the fruit is transformed to chocolate. Interesting to see.
  • A 3 hours walk up to the Angolar Waterfall and the 6 tunnels. The tunnels are aquaducs, (one is about 160m and the second 200m long). In these two you will walk inside the aquaduc (fresh water up to your knees, so change your shoes for this and take a headlamp (or phone) with you. It’s a really beautiful walk!
  • Santa Catarina: This small fisher village is further down on the west coast. You will pass a tunnel with the car, nice scenery driving, but nothing else special to see.
Príncipe Island: 
 
The only way to get to Principe is flying. STP Airways flies there twice a day. https://www.stpairways.st . STP uses small planes (18-seater), so luggage is strictly limited to one luggage of 15kg + one backbag/handbag..
 
Note: Since Covid and still until now (February 2024), there is no electricity on the whole island from midnight until 6am. 

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​Rent-a-car: This is the most difficult part in Príncipe. There are no official places, so you have to ask around. Either through an agency in São Tomé or at the hotels or Guesthouses where you stay. Also the staff of restaurants will have a friend that can rent you a car. 
We met people who rented one for 70 Eur a day, others for 160 a day! So be prepared to negociate, as there are no Taxis on the island.
Try to ask a guide, José. Tel: +239 9934011 
Hotels:

​Restaurants: 
  • Armazem: Most probably the best in town. They have a big terrace, an open kitchen and the Menu is a good mix of local and international food. No need for reservation
  • Rito Rito: Tel: +239 996 4860. Nice local Food
  • Mira Rio: On the first floor, nice terrace next to the Bridge/Rio Papagaio
  • Beiramar- Juritinha: Nice local food
  • Rosa Pão: Tel: +239 9916621. They don’t have a lot of tables, better make a reservation. Local Food.
To see: 
There is nothing in the city itself, you can drive through in 5 minutes. They have a small supermarket and few other things, not more. 
 
Beaches: 
  • Praia Banana: The most famous Beach! Beautiful sandy beach with blue waters. The Hotel Belo Monte runs a Beach Bar there. 
  • Praia Caju: Next to Praia Banana
  • Praia Bom Bom: Nice empty Beach for the moment, as the Hotel is closed for renovations.
  • Other Beaches: Praia Grande, Praia Macaco, Praia Boi, Praia Burra, Praia Pretta

​Other things to do: 
  • Inside the National park, walk up to see the Oque Pipi waterfall. It’s a beautiful walk up. At the waterfall, you can even swim in its natural pool with fresh water. If you park the car at the enrtrance of the park, it takes about 1,5 hours to go up and down again.
  • Roça Sundy: There is a  Cacau plantation attached to the Hotel and still some old Buildings that are ruins now, but nice to see.
  • Fishing with captain Pedro: Our Agency in São Tomé organized us a fishing day with the guide José (Tel: +239 9934011). Small Boat, you fish with the lines in your hand, but we got a lot of fish! Afterwards we had lunch that the Guide prepared on Praia Boi, but I would recommend to go to Praia Banana at the Beach Bar for more comfort. 
For more information about São Tomé e Príncipe, check out the following books:
Here below you can see more pictures on the slideshow: ​
© 2024 Tatjana Vetter-Blanckenstein